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My CyberPower CP 1350 AVR LCD Intelligent UPS device (battery backup and surge suppression) arrived two days ago (purchased on Amazon). The first thing that happened when I plugged it in was a red light on in the back of it, "Wiring fault." I looked it up and on the Cyberpowersystems.support page it says, "The wiring fault light indicates that the outlet that the unit is connected to is either not properly grounded or has reversed wiring. First, try connecting the unit to another outlet. If the unit still displays the electrical wiring fault, contact technical support for assistance. If the unit does not display the wiring fault light in the new outlet, you will need to have an electrician correct the problem with the faulty outlet." So, after trying it on another outlet and also got a red light with that one, I called CyberPower. I just want to say how polite and attentive the CyberPower guys are on the telephone. I have since called them with more questions about hooking up the unit, and each time (3 different guys) they were knowledgeable and solved the problem quickly. The red light problem went as follows: they said that the outlets probably are not grounded, and if all your outlets give the red light, it could mean that your house doesn't have grounded outlets. I was surprised, since almost all of my outlets have 3-prong plugs; the 3-prongs are supposed to be for grounded units, but people can install a 3-prong on an outlet that is not grounded, and that still does not make it grounded. Very important to know! So, I bought a "receptable tester" at Lowe's for $5 and tried out the outlets in my house and discovered that certain rooms did not have grounded outlets, while other rooms did. (Just want to add that you can do this without buying a receptacle tester, if you have a surge protector power strip with the two lights on it that say "Protected" and "Grounded." If the "Grounded" light doesn't light up or is DIM, then that outlet is NOT grounded - same thing with the receptacle tester - the two lights on the right should be fully on - if the middle one is bright and the one on the right is DIM then your outlet is NOT grounded. My electrician confirmed this. At first, he thought maybe the center light was reflecting in the right light, but it was DIM. He tested the outlet with his other tools, and said it was NOT grounded.) It dawned on me that the rooms that had grounded outlets were built 1970s or later, and the rooms that did not have grounded outlets were installed with the original house, built in 1955. Unfortunately, the rooms I need to use the CyberPower device in are the old part of the house where my office is. I'm sharing this information, because there are likely to be others who will experience this same situation. If your house is an older house, it is likely that the outlets in some rooms (the older ones) are not grounded, which means you need to call in a professional electrician and have a new, grounded, outlet installed. A new grounded outlet involves putting in a separate line from the main electric box in your house, all the way to the spot where you want an outlet to hook up your UPS device. For many people this isn't difficult. For me it was problematic since my basement is finished, with paneling and ceiling tiles all around, and there were only two teeny possible places in the ceilings of closets where the electrician could try to drill a hole up into the wall for an outlet on the first floor. It took him several hours, but he was finally about to get around the heating ducts and struts, and with the aid of a special drill extender he was able to get two new, grounded, outlets installed in my first-floor office. I had him install two, although I only needed one, so I'd have plenty of outlets for digital devices that need grounding. It did cost me, but now I can be confident that my electronics will be protected with grounding, surge suppression, and battery backup.
The second problem I faced was when I hooked up the UPS to my new (replacement model) Comcast "wireless gateway" modem/router, and wanted the WiFi signal to go out, not from the Comcast unit, but from my Apple Time Capsule unit. I'm sharing this info because I feel certain that others will run into this, too. I followed the Comcast instructions with one exception - the Comcast cable comes out of the wall and into the cable "input" of the CyberPower UPS device. Then you need another cable coming out of the CyberPower unit, from the cable "output" into the Comcast modem/router. So, I thought I had everything hooked up correctly, but it didn't work. I called Comcast and had to talk with an intake person for about twenty minutes before they would pass me to a tech specialist. They helped me get it set up, but after we got off the phone, my Apple Time Capsule continued to blink amber (yellow) and didn't go to the green light. When I checked in the Time Machine app, there was a message, "Double NAT." I looked that up, and it means you have two WiFi systems running. So, even though the Comcast guy told me he was disabling the WiFi on my Comcast unit so that signals would go out through my Time Capsule, there was still this problem. The Comcast guy told me he couldn't help me any more, have to call Apple. So I called Apple. Apple is always very nice, but the intake person didn't know what to do about the yellow light. He passed me to a WiFi specialist at Apple, and that guy knew exactly what to do. So here is what you should do if your Apple Time Capsule keeps blinking amber (yellow) after you have your CyberPower and Comcast set up: Look in Applications - Utilities - AirPort Utility. The Internet icon should have a green light to the left of it. If the Time Capsule icon has an amber (yellow) light to the left of it, simply double-click on the amber light in the picture. It will open a small window. Again, see the yellow circle there and click on it. You will see a small drop-down that has the option "Ignore." --> CLICK ON IGNORE. That is the solution. The Apple guy says "We get this all the time." There are other solutions you will see online, including something about "bridge." Don't do that. Just click "ignore" and you'll be all set from there on out.
One other difficulty I had was plugging devices into the CyberPower unit. I thought something was wrong. The situation is, when you plug things into the unit for the first time, it takes a lot of muscle to shove them into the sockets. Right out of the factory, the plugs are tight. So just use your strength and force them in. After that, it's no problem at all.
I set the CyberPower unit on the floor near the Comcast outlet and modem, and hooked up my computer speaker system and Time Capsule near it. That keeps all the wires in the same area, and off my desk. I have a 14-gauge (9-foot) heavy duty extension cord running from the CyberPower unit to my iMac desktop. I purchased the extension cord on Amazon, too. The CyberPower guys said to get a 14-gauge "one-to-one" extension cord. That means that each electronic device you put on an extension cord coming out of the UPS device needs to have its own extension cord - this is important. This is why I moved my Time Capsule and speakers over to plug in directly to the CyberPower device on the floor. So my desk has just one cord coming off of it, no spaghetti mess of wires all over the place, just on the floor in the corner. The extension cord I picked is a neutral gray, and very flexible:
https://www.amazon.com/Heavy-Conditioner-Major-Appliance-Extension/dp/B013Q5DOZ8?ie=UTF8&psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00
One last comment - this is a most impressive looking machine. It is big and very solid. It is also VERY HEAVY. Other than the things I mentioned, I have had no problem with the device. I have a new grounded outlet now, and I managed to get a Comcast modem hooked through it, and the WiFi signal to go through my Apple Time Capsule, which I'm sure many of you have. So I hope this info helps some of you out there. I am very happy with my purchase, and now thinking I will buy another one for my TV and sound system in the recreation room (which is in the newer part of the house and has grounded outlets!). If I ever do have a problem with it, I will report back! Happy customer, and very happy with the CyberPower tech guys!
4 stars and above
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From the manufacturer
Uninterruptible Power Supply System
Why Do You Need a UPS System?
Even brief power outages can result in data loss or potential hardware damage. A UPS system provides battery backup power to keep your devices running during short outages and provides enough runtime to properly shut down electronics during extended outages.
Where To Use
Desktop Computers
Ensure seamless power to your PC and make certain you have time to safely shut down your system during a longer outage.
Home Networking/VoIP
Keep your smart-home devices connected to your WIFI during power outages and brownouts.
Personal Electronics
Don’t let the game end when the power goes out. Backup battery power keeps gaming consoles, stereos, and chargers running.
Home Theaters
Protect sensitive televisions, projectors, satellites, and cable boxes from power surges and spikes.
CyberPower AVR Intelligent LCD UPS Series
 CP1500AVRLCD |  CP850AVRLCD |  CP1000AVRLCD |  CP1350AVRLCD | |
|
Battery Power
| 1500 | 850 | 1000 | 1350 |
|
Watts
| 900 | 510 | 600 | 815 |
|
Runtime (Half/Full)
| 12/3 Minutes | 11/3 Minutes | 9/2 Minutes | 14/3 Minutes |
|
Battery & Surge Protected
| 6 Outlets | 5 Outlets | 5 Outlets | 5 Outlets |
|
Surge Protected Only
| 6 Outlets | 4 Outlets | 4 Outlets | 5 Outlets |
|
AVR
| ✔ | ✔ | ✔ | ✔ |
|
LCD Screen
| ✔ | ✔ | ✔ | ✔ |
|
Topology
| Line Interactive | Line Interactive | Line Interactive | Line Interactive |
|
Waveform
| Simulated Sine Wave | Simulated Sine Wave | Simulated Sine Wave | Simulated Sine Wave |
|
Model Type
| Mini-Tower | Mini-Tower | Mini-Tower | Mini-Tower |
|
Management Software
| PowerPanel Personal | PowerPanel Personal | PowerPanel Personal | PowerPanel Personal |
Customer reviews
This does not output the power that it displays on the lcd screen. During an outage it said 120v output, when i tested it with my voltage meter it showed 86.7 volts. That’s unacceptable. My Apc displays 113 volts on the screen on battery/outage and wouldn’t you know it... my meter read 113.1v. Apc is true to their specs and i trust them better. Another thing that bothers me about cyberpower is the menu setting, if my power were to dip below 100v it’s supposed to kick in the battery to regulate it back to normal, but instead would just drop me from 100v to 89 or lower! That’s not protection! That’s dangerous on electronics.... last time i buy anything cyber power.
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Top reviews from the United States
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Sharing this info - Problems SOLVED: (1) Red light wiring fault, (2) Comcast modem, and (3) Apple Time Capsule
Reviewed in the United States on April 9, 2016Size: 1350VA / 815WPattern Name: UPS SystemVerified Purchase
Reviewed in the United States on December 22, 2018
I've posted more photos of the software bug. It continues to drive me crazy several times a day with popups and dings and dongs... The unit it's self seems to still be working fine tho. I'm loving everything but the bugware.
============================
ORIGINAL POST:
OK I've had my UPS (1500 Model) for about a month now. I'm 95% happy. Knock off 5% for annoying software alerts.
When I first received the UPS unit, it arrived in perfect condition and was brand new.
First thing I did was plug it in. The battery was around 88% so I let it charge. In just a few minutes, it had reached 100%. It started out pulling 18.2 watts with 88% charge on the battery. By the time it got to 93% charge, it was pulling 15 watts. As the battery gets closer to full charge, the less current it pulls to do so.
NOTE: Just because the unit says 100% charged, does NOT mean it is topped off. In fact, it will still continue to charge for HOURS later. More on that later...
------
After I saw 100% I took a lamp with a 3/way bulb in it which was 50w/100w/150w. I set the lamp on the 150 watt and plugged it into my (Kill-A-Watt) current tester. The lamp was pulling 148 watts plugged in using the 150w setting.
I then plugged the 150w lamp into the UPS alone, and unplugged the UPS. The lamp did not blink.
DRAW-DOWN RESULTS:---
0 minutes runtime = DISPLAY=53 mins left, battery 100% remaining
3 minutes runtime = DISPLAY=32 mins left, battery 62% remaining
9m 45s runtime = DISPLAY= battery 50% remaining
21m 30s runtime = DISPLAY= battery 25% remaining
25m 25s runtime = DISPLAY= battery 15% remaining
27m 08s runtime = DISPLAY= battery 10% remaining
Unit turned off right after it hit 10%. I turned it back on and it ran for about 1 more minute and went to 0 (ZERO) batter remaining.
You can expect to go from 100% charge to shutdown in 27 minutes pulling 148 watts with the display on. This this is with a NEW set of batteries. In my experience, this time will shorten as the batteries age.
CHARGE-UP RESULTS:---
I removed the lamp from the UPS unit and plugged it in with nothing hooked to it.
The unit is pulling 18.3 watts with completely dead batteries. This is the maximum it will ever pull. I would call it 18 watts.
Reached 15% charge = withing seconds
Reached 19% charge = 18 minutes pulling 17 watts to do so
Reached 20% charge = 21m 40s pulling 17 watts to do so
Reached 30% charge = 1hr 11m pulling 17 watts to do so
Reached 35% charge = 1hr 32m pulling 17 watts to do so
Reached 40% charge = 1hr 55m pulling 17 watts to do so
Reached 70% charge = 4hr 15m pulling 17 watts to do so
Reached 75% charge = 4hr 42m pulling 17 watts to do so
Reached 80% charge = 5.0hrs pulling 17 watts to do so
Reached 100% charge = 6hr 29m pulling 17 watts to do so
This reached 100% about uhhhh 8:pm.
Although 100% charged, the UPS unit continued to pull the higher voltage from the wall. The voltage draw continued to fall as the HOURS passed by. I let the UPS unit stay plugged in until I saw that the voltage draw either shut off or leveled out somewhere. I finally gave up watching this slow voltage drop-off and went to bed around 2:00am, about 6 hours after 100% was reached. The next morning I woke up and saw that the UPS unit was only pulling 7.0 watts. I continued to watch the voltage draw a few more hours and it never changed. The unit pulls 7.0 watts continuously. This is with the LCD on. I never turned the LCD off to see if the voltage went to zero but I doubt if the LCD pulls 7 watts. I am assuming from my testing here that the unit till trickle 7 watts of current always with the LCD on. You can expect at least this much once you have it hooked up and it's "FULLY" charged.
THE SOFTWARE:---
(PowerPanel Personal)
The software instilled on Windows 10 PRO easily and as expected with no errors.
*The software the remaining percentage of batter (i.e. 100%)
*Remaining runtime (i.e. 22 minutes) for me and my computer & 3 monitors usually are pulling around 300w
*UPS Load. Right now my load says 279 watts typing this up and listening to tv stream in background, 1x 32", 2x 24" monitors. Intel i7 6 core. 3 browsers open and about 30 tabs, outlook, Visual Studio and the UPS software running.
*Output voltage (i.e current coming from the wall to the UPS 120v)
*Another page shows a short history of blackouts and brownouts. *(I see none on mine)
*setup email alerts. Cannot setup text alerts. However the alert can go to your gmail and your phone will alert you.
*You can select from two options of what happens if power goes out.
--- Shut down computer when remaining runtime left is: 5, 6, 7, 8, 10 minutes
--- Shut down after running on battery after 0, 1, 2, 3, 4, 5 minutes
*Adjust when the UPS kicks in; (i.e. if voltage goes below 100v, when AC voltage goes above 139v) You can set these parameters. I left them at the defaults show above.
*You can set the sensitivity (i.e. Low, Medium, High) I left this at the default of Medium.
*You can select the type pf shutdown. (i.e. Shutdown, Hibernate) I left this to the default of Shutdown.
You do not need the software for the UPS to function as you would expect a UPS to function. I installed the software.
The software is BUGGY on my Windows 10 PRO. The only bug I can report is very annoying. Throughout the day an startling and annoying Windows ALERT will popup in the bottom right of the screen and in the Windows notification area telling you that the UPS has lost connection with the UPS. In less than 5 seconds another startling and annoying Windows ALERT will popup in the bottom right of the screen and in the Windows notification area telling you that the UPS has reestablished connection and everything is alright. This happens all the time every day. I hate it. I doubt any connection is ever really lost here, who knows as there is no evidence of it. I will probably end up uninstalling the software as it the negatives outweigh the positives for me personally.
I never open the software anymore to check on any of those features I've mentioned above. Once you've learned about the current you use and about how much time you have after a power failure, there really isn't anything else you need to know.
If you don't install the software, the default settings is, on power outage it runs the outlets until the unit gets down to 10% then abruptly dies.
I have been searching for opinions on these popup alerts and they seem to have been happening for many years so I wouldn't expect a software update fix anytime soon if ever.
I have provided PHOTOS of these errors.
There is a MANUAL Mute button on the front of the unit. Don't let anyone tell you there isn't. It works but I like to be alerted. Who wouldn't?
I do think this UPS is well worth its price. I got it on sale during Black Friday.
I hope this review has helped you.
Size: 1500VA / 900WPattern Name: UPS SystemVerified Purchase
Works good, Nice display, Good size, looks sharp, HEAVY, Software BUGGY
By Top Ranked Reviewer on December 21, 2018
UPDATE 1/6/2018By Top Ranked Reviewer on December 21, 2018
I've posted more photos of the software bug. It continues to drive me crazy several times a day with popups and dings and dongs... The unit it's self seems to still be working fine tho. I'm loving everything but the bugware.
============================
ORIGINAL POST:
OK I've had my UPS (1500 Model) for about a month now. I'm 95% happy. Knock off 5% for annoying software alerts.
When I first received the UPS unit, it arrived in perfect condition and was brand new.
First thing I did was plug it in. The battery was around 88% so I let it charge. In just a few minutes, it had reached 100%. It started out pulling 18.2 watts with 88% charge on the battery. By the time it got to 93% charge, it was pulling 15 watts. As the battery gets closer to full charge, the less current it pulls to do so.
NOTE: Just because the unit says 100% charged, does NOT mean it is topped off. In fact, it will still continue to charge for HOURS later. More on that later...
------
After I saw 100% I took a lamp with a 3/way bulb in it which was 50w/100w/150w. I set the lamp on the 150 watt and plugged it into my (Kill-A-Watt) current tester. The lamp was pulling 148 watts plugged in using the 150w setting.
I then plugged the 150w lamp into the UPS alone, and unplugged the UPS. The lamp did not blink.
DRAW-DOWN RESULTS:---
0 minutes runtime = DISPLAY=53 mins left, battery 100% remaining
3 minutes runtime = DISPLAY=32 mins left, battery 62% remaining
9m 45s runtime = DISPLAY= battery 50% remaining
21m 30s runtime = DISPLAY= battery 25% remaining
25m 25s runtime = DISPLAY= battery 15% remaining
27m 08s runtime = DISPLAY= battery 10% remaining
Unit turned off right after it hit 10%. I turned it back on and it ran for about 1 more minute and went to 0 (ZERO) batter remaining.
You can expect to go from 100% charge to shutdown in 27 minutes pulling 148 watts with the display on. This this is with a NEW set of batteries. In my experience, this time will shorten as the batteries age.
CHARGE-UP RESULTS:---
I removed the lamp from the UPS unit and plugged it in with nothing hooked to it.
The unit is pulling 18.3 watts with completely dead batteries. This is the maximum it will ever pull. I would call it 18 watts.
Reached 15% charge = withing seconds
Reached 19% charge = 18 minutes pulling 17 watts to do so
Reached 20% charge = 21m 40s pulling 17 watts to do so
Reached 30% charge = 1hr 11m pulling 17 watts to do so
Reached 35% charge = 1hr 32m pulling 17 watts to do so
Reached 40% charge = 1hr 55m pulling 17 watts to do so
Reached 70% charge = 4hr 15m pulling 17 watts to do so
Reached 75% charge = 4hr 42m pulling 17 watts to do so
Reached 80% charge = 5.0hrs pulling 17 watts to do so
Reached 100% charge = 6hr 29m pulling 17 watts to do so
This reached 100% about uhhhh 8:pm.
Although 100% charged, the UPS unit continued to pull the higher voltage from the wall. The voltage draw continued to fall as the HOURS passed by. I let the UPS unit stay plugged in until I saw that the voltage draw either shut off or leveled out somewhere. I finally gave up watching this slow voltage drop-off and went to bed around 2:00am, about 6 hours after 100% was reached. The next morning I woke up and saw that the UPS unit was only pulling 7.0 watts. I continued to watch the voltage draw a few more hours and it never changed. The unit pulls 7.0 watts continuously. This is with the LCD on. I never turned the LCD off to see if the voltage went to zero but I doubt if the LCD pulls 7 watts. I am assuming from my testing here that the unit till trickle 7 watts of current always with the LCD on. You can expect at least this much once you have it hooked up and it's "FULLY" charged.
THE SOFTWARE:---
(PowerPanel Personal)
The software instilled on Windows 10 PRO easily and as expected with no errors.
*The software the remaining percentage of batter (i.e. 100%)
*Remaining runtime (i.e. 22 minutes) for me and my computer & 3 monitors usually are pulling around 300w
*UPS Load. Right now my load says 279 watts typing this up and listening to tv stream in background, 1x 32", 2x 24" monitors. Intel i7 6 core. 3 browsers open and about 30 tabs, outlook, Visual Studio and the UPS software running.
*Output voltage (i.e current coming from the wall to the UPS 120v)
*Another page shows a short history of blackouts and brownouts. *(I see none on mine)
*setup email alerts. Cannot setup text alerts. However the alert can go to your gmail and your phone will alert you.
*You can select from two options of what happens if power goes out.
--- Shut down computer when remaining runtime left is: 5, 6, 7, 8, 10 minutes
--- Shut down after running on battery after 0, 1, 2, 3, 4, 5 minutes
*Adjust when the UPS kicks in; (i.e. if voltage goes below 100v, when AC voltage goes above 139v) You can set these parameters. I left them at the defaults show above.
*You can set the sensitivity (i.e. Low, Medium, High) I left this at the default of Medium.
*You can select the type pf shutdown. (i.e. Shutdown, Hibernate) I left this to the default of Shutdown.
You do not need the software for the UPS to function as you would expect a UPS to function. I installed the software.
The software is BUGGY on my Windows 10 PRO. The only bug I can report is very annoying. Throughout the day an startling and annoying Windows ALERT will popup in the bottom right of the screen and in the Windows notification area telling you that the UPS has lost connection with the UPS. In less than 5 seconds another startling and annoying Windows ALERT will popup in the bottom right of the screen and in the Windows notification area telling you that the UPS has reestablished connection and everything is alright. This happens all the time every day. I hate it. I doubt any connection is ever really lost here, who knows as there is no evidence of it. I will probably end up uninstalling the software as it the negatives outweigh the positives for me personally.
I never open the software anymore to check on any of those features I've mentioned above. Once you've learned about the current you use and about how much time you have after a power failure, there really isn't anything else you need to know.
If you don't install the software, the default settings is, on power outage it runs the outlets until the unit gets down to 10% then abruptly dies.
I have been searching for opinions on these popup alerts and they seem to have been happening for many years so I wouldn't expect a software update fix anytime soon if ever.
I have provided PHOTOS of these errors.
There is a MANUAL Mute button on the front of the unit. Don't let anyone tell you there isn't. It works but I like to be alerted. Who wouldn't?
I do think this UPS is well worth its price. I got it on sale during Black Friday.
I hope this review has helped you.
Images in this review
Top reviews from other countries
Christopher T
Work fine so far; average LCD features, long term durability and reliability remains to be seen
Reviewed in Canada on March 4, 2020Size: 1500VA / 900WPattern Name: UPS SystemVerified Purchase
Work fine so far; average LCD features, long term durability and reliability remains to be seen
Reviewed in Canada on March 4, 2020
I bought these a while back for some new boxes I was building. I have owned at least 2-3 dozens of consumer UPS's (and a few retired ones from work) starting at the 90's after experiencing the first power outages that resulted in loss of data, and I've been using them ever since for each and every one of my computers (that I care about).Reviewed in Canada on March 4, 2020
I bought this (and this particular model) largely because they were on sale at the time and the fact that I've noticed the quality of APC has been going downhill with their 1000/1500 VA UPS over the last 5-10 years and I thought, I'll give this particular model as shot. Of course, I'm no stranger to CP as they are on the short list of one of the well-known (and available) UPS's in Canada.
First thing first, it's not connected to the cable/TV system or phone lines so I can't comment on those.
Secondly, these consumer UPS's are primarily used for relatively 'short' power outages so that you have the opportunity to PROPERLY shut down your computers which is the most important thing you can possibly do during an outage. These are not meant for running your devices for hours and hours simply because they don't have the battery capacity. For instance, at about half the load of 450W, it will run out of power in less than 10 min or so. 450W isn't a lot for today's systems, especially gaming systems with beefy CPU and/or GPU that requires significant amount of wattage. In addition, there exist other devices such as monitors, modems/routers, USB hubs, or switches etc that may be connected to the UPS. The bottom line is that 900W which is what this UPS is rated at isn't a whole lot nowadays. My personal rule of thumb is about 50% of the rated load (450W for this model) so I can have a few minutes working with the battery while having sufficient time to power off if necessary.
Having said that, you don't necessarily need to power off your system immediately when power outages occur as long as you have a few minutes of runtime left (say, 2-3 min). I would be hesitant to let it go much below 2min because its estimate is far from accurate and I wouldn't want to risk it which defeats the purpose of having an UPS in the first place (i.t. safe/graceful power off). The included app provided basic functionalities but it serves its purpose. Depending on your OS, you might be able to find 3rd party apps (free or otherwise) that also work [better] with this but I haven't tried them.
I've tested the REAL runtime under the following loads;
133W = 40min 02sec
268W = 20min 13sec
These match to what they are supposed to be given the spec.
Battery replacement is a bit of involved in comparison; first you will need to remove the front panel (screws at the bottom) to remove the 1st battery, and then remove another plate underneath the panel to remove the 2nd battery. A battery test should be performed (using the LCD or software) in order for the UPS to more accurately estimate the runtime as well as making sure the new battery is functioning normally.
To perform a battery test;
* Hold both DISPLAY and MUTE for 3 sec
* Press DISPLAY to scroll to 'b-t'
* Press MUTE to select 'b-t'
* When prompted, press MUTE to confirm
The test will last approximately 10 seconds or so.
Its LCD provides similar functions than most other counterparts of the same 'grade'; however, its screen is easier for me to read than most others (doesn't bother me though). Of all 11 readouts/displays, 'Output Kw' and 'Estimated runtime' are the most useful for me.
Note: If you don't like the display to be ON (or OFF) all the time, press and hold DISPLAY for a few seconds until it beeps to turn ON or OFF auto-timeout for LCD.
Last but not least, if your computer can properly go into and out of SLEEP or HIBERNATE mode, it will DRASTICALLY increase the runtime if that's what you prefer instead of powering it off.
For the most part, this particular mode serves its purpose for 30-40% less dough than APC, most of which I still own at the moment but will be gradually 'phasing them out' with CyberPower in the future.
Images in this review
Carlos Murillo
Esta bateria de $4168.00 pesos no sirve - CLIENTE MUY MOLESTO
Reviewed in Mexico on December 6, 2020Size: 1500VA / 900WPattern Name: UPS SystemVerified Purchase
Esta bateria de $4168.00 pesos no sirve - CLIENTE MUY MOLESTO
Reviewed in Mexico on December 6, 2020
Es increible, pero recibi una bateria de este precio y no funciona, la acabo de conectar por primera vez y no enciende, estoy muy molesto porque ademas la polica de este producto es de: No se puede regresar!Reviewed in Mexico on December 6, 2020
Que se supone que tengo que hacer para que me regresen mi dinero o la reemplazen!!!!!
En toda la pagina de AMAZON, no existe una forma de contactarlos para expresar esto, ademas estoy dentro de los 30 dias para poder recibr su respuesta.
Anexo fotos del probre control de calidad de este producto en donde te envian cosas inservibles.
Images in this review
Xiaofan Yang
DO NOT USE WITH AQUARIUM, Power will not turn back on
Reviewed in Canada on July 15, 2019Size: 1500VA / 900WPattern Name: UPS SystemVerified Purchase
F Ram
Inutil
Reviewed in Mexico on April 4, 2021Size: 1500VA / 900WPattern Name: UPS SystemVerified Purchase
Jon Rivers
Update, 2020 June 22nd. Bought this 2.5 years ago.
Reviewed in Canada on March 17, 2018Size: 1500VA / 900WPattern Name: UPS SystemVerified Purchase
